In other words, shellac is a pain in the ass and I have no idea why anyone would considered using shellac as a floor finish.

Since the days of yore, when bugs were crushed up to make shellac, the paint and finishes industry has developed far better floor finishes than shellac.  So, why not use them instead?  But first let’s deal with shellac.

The Mush Factor

Shellac is a resin that comes from the female lac bug in S.E. Asia–the same resin that glazes the candy Skittles.

Shellac is alcohol-based, and even though this means it dries rapidly, this still complicates matters because dilution is a tricky process.  Overly thick shellac applied to the flooring can form a shell-like surface that traps the alcohol base below.  This gives the shellac an outwardly “dry” feeling, when in reality it’s a mushy mess below.  Put your finger on it, step on it, or God forbid, set a paint or shellac can on it, and you have an indentation that lasts forever.

So, you’ll need to dilute your shellac; but unless you’re a pro at working with shellac, this is difficult to calibrate.

More Shellac Needed

Also, shellac is not a one-coat-does-all type of floor finish.  After that first coat, you’ve got to basically roughen it up again with fine-grit sandpaper in the 300′s range.  Then, wipe off the sanded shellac dust with tack cloth.  Then reapply the shellac finish.

Are you done yet?  No way.  Do it all over again.

Three coats of shellac is the minimum.  After that, you’ve got waxing to contend with, buffing, another waxing, and buffing again.

Shellac floor finish should be reserved for historic houses that demand this type of accuracy–not the average residential home.

Glossy vs. Semi-Gloss Topcoats

Your floor’s topcoat finish is all about looks and practicality.  Many homeowners desire a highly glossy topcoat finish on the basis of its durability, but forget that these glossy finishes tend to show scratches quicker and are more slippery when wet.

Taking it down a notch, the semi-gloss and low-gloss topcoat finishes tend to be the best of both worlds: they have a moderate amount of gloss, yet they are still quite hardy and durable.

Oil-Modified Urethane Finishes

You will probably find that oil modified urethanes are much easier to fix than any kind of moisture cured urethane or acid-curing Swedish finishes.  These moisture cured finishes are highly toxic and are difficult to deal with.

Every type of floor topcoat has its ups and downs.  Waxes and oil finishes sound good on paper, but they are highly flammable and provide only a moderate amount of durability.  Swedish finishes are toxic and have an overpowering odor, yet are considered extremely durable.

Moisture-Cured Urethane Finishes

If you live in a place with a lot of humidity, any moisture-cured urethane is just the ticket.  These urethanes dry rather quickly in high humidity, yet these urethanes are also flammable and have a strong odor.

The oil modified urethanes are very smelly and dry slowly, but they are very resistant to abrasion and scratches.  And finally, one of the most popular topcoat finishes, the water-based urethanes, have almost no odor, are very durable, and are not flammable.

1. Sealers – Sealers are kind of like paint primers:  they provide a good, workable base for subsequent finish coats.
2. Linseed and Tung Oils – These oils also penetrate the wood, but they can act as a final finish coat.  These are not considered durable coatings, and they do need to revived occasionally by recoating.
3. Stains
4. Stain-Sealers
5. Waxes

Swedish finish is not a brand name.  You will find no manufacturers going by this name.  It is a type of wood flooring finish that is high in VOC levels because it is acid-curing and contains formaldehyde.  Many professional wood flooring installers won’t touch the stuff because it requires certain approved respirators.  Maximum ventilation is mandatory when applying a Swedish finish; you don’t want to apply it in the winter.

But the chief reason why people do use Swedish finishes is because it is extremely hard and durable.

One unfortunate characteristic of Swedish finish is that it does tend to pull the grain up a bit.  So, after the 3-4 days’ curing time, you’ll probably need to do a light buffing.  Just put on the finest grit paper on your sander and give it a once-over.

Swedish Finish Quick List

So, to sum up a few basics about Swedish finish:

• Smelly
• Highly toxic
• Very hard, durable
• Requires an extra sanding

Swedish Floor Finish

During the 19th century, parquetry made its way over from the Continent and wood floors slowly became more than just planks laid down and worn down by foot traffic. Innovations like the tongue-and-groove configuration were making wood floors more versatile in both use and appearance. Protecting such quality flooring eventually become desired and necessary. The wood floor finish was born.

Today, wood floors can be found in millions of homes and settings. The floors are warm and elegant, durable and unique. Each floor is different and the finish is often what defines it. The three most common wood floor finishes are: Surface, Penetrating, and Extra-durable. Which is right for you?

Surface Finishes

Surface finishes are the most popular wood floor finishes today and though tough, require minimal care. To create the surface finish, a stain is applied to achieve a particular color, followed by a polyurethane top coat for protection. The four main surface finishes are:

1. Oil-based urethane: Available in ambers, this solvent-based finish is simple to apply and dries in less than half a day.
2. Water-based urethane: Clear and non-yellowing, this finish is quick to dry, only taking about two to three hours.
3. Moisture-cured urethane: A solvent-based polyurethane finish that’s durable and moisture-resistant. Available in ambers, with a finish of satin or gloss.
4. Conversion varnish: When dried, this finish turns amber in color. A durable finish, the conversion varnish should be applied by a professional. Not a DIY choice.

Swedish Floor Finish

Penetrating Finishes

Penetrating finishes are wood floor finishes that actually soak into the wood. Unlike surface finishes, which sit above the wood, penetrating finishes do exactly what their name says: penetrate. After the stain soaks into the wood, a wax coating is applied.

• The sheen of a floor is its shine. Choose from a high gloss, low gloss or satin finish. Although high gloss has its advantages, it is also the finish that reveals the most scratches and imperfections. While this works for a commercial or contemporary setting, it’s not recommended for the traditional. For the home, go with the low gloss or satin.
• When it comes to maintenance, water-based products should never be used on penetrating finishes. The only acceptable care is solvent-based waxes, buffing pastes, or cleaning liquids made specifically for wax-finished wood floors.

Extra-Durable Finishes

The extra-durable finish is a newcomer to wood floors but is making a name for itself. The reason being is, its finishing process fortifies wood floors, making them “extra-durable.” The two types available are: Swedish and Acrylic.

• Swedish:  As befits the name, originating from Sweden, this resin-based finish is rather remarkable in that it is so thin, the grain of the wood can still be felt. What’s more, it doesn’t require waxing.
• Acrylic: This finish is extremely hard, creating a barrier to dirt, moisture, and everyday wear. Yet because of its durability, it’s also among the most expensive and thus, more suitable for the commercial setting.