• What’s the approximate size of my roof?
• How much approximately will the $@!!*# roof cost?

Why won’t anyone tell that?  Beats me.  So, the caveat here is that, at the expense of finely granulated accuracy, we are giving you approximate roofing sizes and costs.  Average, after all, means after.  And while average roofing costs will not apply exactly to you, it will apply in a kinda-sorta way because…it’s average.  Got that?  The roofing contractors will howl in protest (I can already hear them):  But what about flashing, what about New England vs. Arizona, what about seasons?  They’re right, but unless they want to start handng out roofing estimates in an article, we’ll have to go with my calculations.  Now let’s get started.

Step 1. What’s the Approximate Roof Pitch?

Break it down simple, and say that you’ve got either a low-pitched, medium-pitched, or steeply-pitched house.

Low-Pitch Roof

This can range from absolutely flat to sloped-but-still-easy-to-walk-on.  A rambler has this type of roof.

Medium-Pitch Roof

The “average” house.  It’s not a low-down 1960s rambler, but it’s not a Gothic-y Victorian, either.  This describes most contemporary houses.

Steep-Pitched Roof

Now we’re getting fancy.  You don’t need to have a historic hosue to have a steep roof, either.  Basically, this means that it’s next to impossible to walk on this roof.

Step 2. How Many Roofing Squares Will the Roof Need?

A roofing square is one-hundred square feet (100 sq. ft.) of shingles.

Because roofers use so many shingles at a time, it’s pointless for them to talk in units smaller than 100 square feet.  So, don’t confuse squares with square footage.

Example:  Your house has 1,200 square feet and a low pitched roof.  So, your total squares are 13.8.

Step 3. Figure the Roofing Cost

All estimated roofing costs include removal and disposal of existing shingles and installation of new shingles.  Labor and materials included.  Flashing, ice dams, underlayment, repairs, and related items not included.

Composition Shingle Roofing Estimate – Low End

Fiberglass 3-Tab 225 lb. 20 year

Multiply your squares by $143 per square cost.

Example:  35 squares x $143 = $5,005

Composition Shingle Roofing Estimate – High End

Architectural laminated 30 year

Multiply your squares by $171 per square cost.

Example:  35 squares x $171 = $5,985

Cedar Wood Roofing Estimate

16″ Red Label

Multiply your squares by $422 per square cost.

Example:  35 squares x $422 = $14,770

Slate Roofing Estimate

Pennsylvania slate

Multiply your squares by $812 per square cost.

Example:  35 squares x $812 = $28,420

You’re be pleasantly surprised to hear that these thin asphalt overlays are no more than 1.5″ thick or less and are made up of aggregate materials that generally have a small size:  about 12.5mm or smaller.

The catch, of course, is that thin layer asphalt overlays must be laid on base structures that are sturdy.

Remember that thin-lay asphalt overlay isn’t for everyone…it’s only when your base is good enough.

Recycled asphalt pavement, or RAP, can even be added into the aggregates to lower the cost and improve efficiency.  Not only that, but hot-mix apshalt is not necessarily needed:  warm-mix asphalt can add benefits, which allows the asphalt to be laid in relatively cool weather.

Most thin layer asphalt overlays can be expected to last a decade on a good asphalt base; about 6-7 years on a concrete base.

Today, that same kind of Old Town friendliness is achieved with the vinyl picket fence. From a distance, a vinyl fence looks exactly like a wood one. Indeed passing by, it would be difficult to tell them apart. Manufacturers have made great strides in achieving an aesthetic that matches the wood picket fence, from the spacing to the fence caps to the finials. The big difference – and thereby advantage – with vinyl is its no-mess maintenance.

Today, many homeowners are opting for the beauty of wood with the worry-free maintenance of vinyl. To clean a vinyl picket fence, all you need is a watering hose and perhaps a scrubber. Some versions may need to be painted every few years, but others require no paint at all – ever. What’s more, a vinyl picket fence is built to withstand the elements, including wind, rain, and snow.

Weather-Beaten Picket Fences?

With a wood fence, you need to be mindful of the weather and weathering. Some homeowners prefer the weathered look, but the next step after “weathered” is damaged and “in need of repair.” With vinyl, such concerns are put away. While wood may turn rustic, vinyl will remain pristine. Indeed, the long-term benefits of “going vinyl” will surface in no time.

Vinyl Picket Fence Prices

Price-wise, a vinyl fence will cost you more than a wood one. However, greater cost today means savings in the future, due to the lack of maintenance, repair, and replacement often required by a wood fence. With vinyl, you are investing in a product to last up to 20 years.

Vinyl is admittedly a relatively new product, but with such advantages, it’s catching on fast. With this said, you should educate yourself on all the details, from the manufacturing process to the included warranty. What’s covered in the warranty? Look for one that will cover the essentials, such as cracking, fading, or yellowing.

A quality vinyl picket fence will be one made from notched rail-fastening systems, with galvanized steel inserts. Despite its cottage-look elegance, you’ll want a fence that’s strong and durable. A fence made with heavy wall posts and rails and that makes use of stainless steel fasteners is one built to withstand the elements and time.

Vinyl fences can be installed by yourself or by a professional. Given the investment, you may wish to hire a professional installer; however, it is definitely a project you can take on by yourself. Just be sure to purchase quality materials. It all starts with the right materials. The vinyl picket fence typically comes in pre-assembled sections, 6’ to 8’ each.

Did you know: Vinyl fencing is available in various styles, including those made to resemble decorative iron fencing. For “wood fences,” choices range from the post-and-rail design to the traditional picket fence.

A:  Hold on there, pardner.  I know that you’re looking for the quick-and-easy answer to your question about asphalt paving cost, but let’s provide a little context first.  You’ll need context, because that’s the first thing that the contractor will bring up when he comes to give you an estimate…

Asphalt Paving Includes a Base

Understand that asphalt paving is more than just asphalt paving.  It also should include a gravel bed laid in by a professional company.  This gravel bed does need to be graded and compacted down to industry standards.

Few paving companies will agree to lay down asphalt without a good bed.

Commercial or Residential Paving?

It also makes a difference if we’re talking about commercial vs. residential asphalt installation.  Commercial costs will be substantially lower because of the quantity involved.  For pavers, it’s nearly as much a pain in the ass dealing with a residential driveway as it is a strip mall parking lot.  In fact, I bet most companies will say that the residential driveway is more of a pain in the ass because they have to deal with uninformed homeowners.  But I digress…

Here’s the “Money Shot”:  Paving Costs Breakdown

For a 450 square foot driveway, here are some rough estimates:

• Base prep work might cost you a buck or two a square foot.  So, between $450 and $900 for the gravel base work.  Add in more if they have to deal with tree stumps or fill in large areas.
• For the actual asphalt paving, you’re looking at costs ranging from $3 to $4/square foot.  So, $1,350 to $1,800 for the asphalt portion.

Total Asphalt Paving Costs

You’re looking at a bill ranging from $1,800 to $2,700 for base work plus asphalt for a 450 square foot driveway.

What is Asphalt Sealant?

Asphalt sealant is an effective solution for protecting asphalt surfaces, such as parking areas, streets, and for the homeowner, driveways.

A mix of sun, moisture, and temperature can lead a driveway to expand, contract, and pull apart. Yet a simple sealant can help it withstand such punishment. When considering this investment, think curb appeal and your home’s overall value.

Yes, It’s Sealant – But It Looks Great

Looking at your driveway, you may think that it looks perfectly fine. However, it’s not about the here and now. Just like car maintenance, action isn’t taken for what has happened, but what could happen. In the case of an asphalt driveway, this generally means costly repairs.

Keep in mind that asphalt is a flexible product. Once laid down, it will indeed change according to its environment. For example, ultraviolet rays from the sun will dry out asphalt, causing the surface to gray and for tiny alligator cracks to appear. If not addressed, these seemingly harmless cracks can turn into troublesome potholes.

Coal Tar or Asphalt-Based Sealant

Applying asphalt sealant can be done by yourself or by a professional. Note that there are two types of sealants to choose from: coal tar or asphalt-based.

All driveway sealers are water-based emulsions containing water, latex, polymers, clay fillers, and additives. You can then choose between sealants made from coal tar or asphalt. While the latter is more environmentally friendly, the former is known for its durability, oil-resistance, and affordable cost. As a result, coal tar sealants remain the more popular choice.

Another consideration is plain vs. filled sealers. In the latter’s case, the sealer contains sand, perfect for filling in cracks and holes. However, depending on the condition of your driveway when you seal it, a filled sealer may not be necessary.

FAQs About Asphalt Sealant

How often should you seal your driveway?

Manufacturers recommend resealing a driveway once every two or three years. If you’re doing in yourself, you can save up to 65%. Be sure to review the entire project before taking it on though. As with anything DIY, you want to do it right the first time. Mistakes can turn costly in a hurry.

How do the elements affect asphalt sealers?

Driveways help beautify the home, creating a natural extension from the road to your garage. It’s curb appeal at its most basic. It’s also an investment that needs protection — from being driven on, a game of basketball, and most of all, from the elements.

Ice, snow, heat, and rain all have an impact on asphalt. From heat that swells the surface to the winter cold that contracts it, asphalt has a tendency to “crack” under such pressures. Once the oxidation process begins, it’s not easy to reverse. However, it can be halted. A sealant can help it better absorb such fluctuations.

While sealing the driveway is a good idea for all homeowners, for those who live in areas of extreme weather (such as the south, northeast, or desert areas), it’s a must. Indeed, asphalt sealant is the perfect example of a small investment today that should yield considerable savings in the future.

Strange to think, but the asphalt paving that will go on your sweet little old driveway is the same stuff that road crews put down. While you can’t expect a team of orange-vested workers to bring in exactly the same machines that are used on roads, the mixture–called “hot mix asphalt paving”–is really the same thing.

It’s an aggregate of stones and sand mixed in with liquid asphalt. The reason it’s called “hot mix” is because it’s heated to over 300 degrees Fahrenheit, and it’s the intense heat that liquifies the asphalt.

The hot-mix asphalt may be laid on top of your existing driveway. If the driveway is not in good shape, it is removed and the new hot-mix asphalt is laid on top of a base of several inches of aggregate or laid directly on top of soil.

The hot mix is delivered to your house in a hot, soft, ready state. As the mixture cools, it hardens.

Read on, though, to find out why full-depth is preferable to the overlay method.

Overlay Asphalt Paving

If you have an existing asphalt or concrete driveway, but it’s in poor repair, you can overlay another layer of asphalt paving on top.

Still, the existing surface needs to be in a minimally good condition to support the new asphalt paving. If more than 75% of the existing driveway is cracked, you’re better off pulling off the driveway and starting anew.

The asphalt contractor will first patch minor holes and cracks with hot mix. Then a surface of up to 2 inches of hot mix will be laid on top of the patched driveway.

Full-Depth Asphalt Paving

Full-depth is the better option. There are two ways to define full-depth asphalt paving.

Actual Full-Depth.

Nothing between the hot-mix and the soil. Four to six inches of hot-mix asphalt laid directly on soil. This is the most preferable type of full-depth paving.

Full-Depth With Partial Aggregate Replacement

Three inches of compacted aggregate base is equal to one inch of hot-mix asphalt paving. A typical arrangement is to lay down 6-8 inches of compacted aggregate under 3 inches of hot-mix asphalt paving.

• Asphalt paving is more flexible–and therefore less prone to cracking–than concrete.
• Asphalt paving is done by the hot-mix method and therefore sets faster than concrete, which needs to dry.
• Asphalt paving is unaffected by the application of rock salt or ice melt during winter months.
• Asphalt paving is generally cheaper than concrete paving.
• Asphalt paving does not need the installation of rebar forms. It can even be installed over an existing driveway.
• Asphalt paving is a competitive business, so it is possible to find good deals.

We can help.  Homeowners often ask asphalt contractors if there is a best time of year to lay down asphalt.  Yes there is.  All other factors being equal (that is, the temperature of the delivered asphalt being 300 degrees F and final temperature 174 F), there are certain standards for when and how long it takes to install driveway asphalt.

The rule of thumb is that the colder the temperature and the lesser the depth of asphalt, the less time the contractor has to work with it.  The best window of opportunity is shown in blue in the table; the cautionary time in yellow; and the unrecommended time in red.

Source:  National Asphalt Paving Association

You’ve seen highway road crews laying down asphalt in the worst of conditions. So you might think: how hard can it be to lay down asphalt on my driveway?

Hot-mix asphalt is finicky and its installation depends mainly on the temperature of the air and of the surface. The National Asphalt Pavement Association recommends that contractors stay away from laying down “low lifts” of asphalt in very cold temperatures. A “low lift” is basically the height of the layer of asphalt. A low lift is 1.5 inches; a high lift is 3 inches.

Remember that depth does matter in the case of laying down overlay versus full-depth asphalt paving.

The worst-case scenario would be a low lift of 1.5 inches laid in 40 degrees F. Asphalt workers need time to manipulate the hot-but-cooling-rapidly asphalt mixture. Think of when you spread out hot food on your plate to cool it down. Spreading a thin layer of, say, mashed potatoes hastens the cooling process. But cooling, while good for food, is fatal for hot-mix asphalt.

The same 1.5 inches of hot-mix asphalt is still a dicey proposition up to 60 degrees F. Only above 60 degrees does this 1.5 inch lift become workable.

See our chart showing the “window of opportunity” for laying hot-mix asphalt.

Now let’s double the lift from 1.5 inches to 3 inches. The 3 inch lift is perfectly capable of being worked at 40 degrees F. It’s not the best temperature, but it can be done. The paving crew has a full 46 minutes to work with this higher lift, as opposed to only 16 minutes with the lower lift at the same temperature.

And 16 minutes is such a short time to work the asphalt that most contractors will refuse to take on such a job. If it’s too cold for asphalt and you’re desperate, consider laying a concrete driveway.